Long Island Collection

Mystic Seaport and the Robert David Lion Gardiner Foundation

In January 2023, Mystic Seaport Museum received a two-year grant from the Robert David Lion Gardiner Foundation to catalog and digitize its Long Island Collections. Located near Long Island and committed to preserving collections, the museum aims to promote Suffolk County’s heritage through this project. Key priorities include surveying holdings, identifying relevant materials, and digitizing selected objects, images, and archival material. The project will enhance catalog records, improve searchability with metadata tags for Long Island towns, and create a dedicated website as a central resource for Long Island history.

Building relationships with external organizations that hold Long Island materials is also a crucial component. The long-term goal is to transform the Long Island Collections website into an aggregator of images and information from various historical collections and institutions. Over the next two years, the museum’s collection of rare books, manuscripts, charts, maps, ship plans, vessels, photographs, audio and visual archives, and other artifacts will be explored to uncover and share the hidden stories of Long Island. This effort will contribute to forming a strong foundation for ongoing and future research into Long Island’s rich history. Following Robert David Lion Gardiner’s vision, scholars, environmentalists, and the public can utilize this project and work together both directly and indirectly to uncover and remember the past in hopes of preserving the future.

The Curatorial Process

Claire and I are thrilled to embark on this unique opportunity to explore the extensive collection at Mystic Seaport Museum, focusing on objects that originate and or relate to Long Island and uncovering their hidden narratives. Our mission involves a thorough examination of the collection including the use of a variety of scholarly resources, including the institution’s website, input from curatorial staff, volunteers, and insights from the public. We aim to forge connections with other institutions, inviting them to contribute content from their own collections, thereby enriching the narrative of Long Island’s history and making it accessible to both locals and a global audience.

Our goal is to weave together stories, trades, and individuals through the lens of these objects, much like the Long Island Sound has historically connected two significant land masses. This unique body of water is not only an ecological treasure, rich in biodiversity, but also a tapestry of diverse histories—spanning indigenous cultures, colonization, slavery, industry, and the arts. Documenting our process will require a deep understanding of the grant’s objectives and collaboration across all curatorial departments, staff, and volunteers. Given that each institution has its own operational nuances, mastering various research methods and software tools will be essential. We aim to create a flexible framework that allows for discoveries to unfold, highlighting the interconnectedness of Long Island’s rich heritage.

Our journey begins with a small yet significant vessel, the oyster sloop Nellie, which will transport us to the origins of Long Island as we know it today. As this vessel undergoes intensive restoration, we will delve into its history and the broader narrative of Long Island itself. The story of the Nellie embodies a complex interplay of fact and fiction, revealing more than we initially expect. The threads it weaves remind us of the profound impact of the past on our future. This process symbolizes a full circle, reflecting the belief held by many early cultures that time is a continuous cycle rather than a linear progression. What once seemed like a flat line transforms into an endless journey, continually cycling through history and its lasting impacts.

Oyster Harvesting Vessels and Tools: A Historical and Technological Evolution 

Early Beginnings and Indigenous Influence
The roots of oyster harvesting in North America trace back to the Indigenous peoples who first developed techniques for gathering oysters. Early European settlers quickly adopted these methods, particularly the use of dugout canoes, and adapted them to suit their needs. Indigenous canoes were traditionally crafted from hardwoods like maple and oak, but settlers favored pine due to its greater abundance and ease of working. The introduction of iron tools further refined boat construction, leading to improvements in design. Over time, settlers modified these early craft, resulting in a variety of small boats—such as skiffs, sharpies, and open rowboats—that became essential for oyster harvesting. 

“‘Oyster boat’ may refer to anything from a skiff to a steamer. Essentially, it means any boat associated in some way with oystering. More specifically, it functions, solely or jointly, as a platform from which oysters are harvested (raked, tonged, or dredged), as a vehicle for freighting and shifting them, or for maintaining the beds.” (Kochiss 1991, 91) 

The Rise of Sail-Powered Craft
By the 19th century, sail-powered vessels, such as catboats and sloops, became the preferred choice for oystermen, thanks to their mobility and capacity. These boats were particularly well-suited for the shallow waters of regions like Long Island’s Great South Bay. The flat-bottomed skiff, which followed the indigenous canoe design, remained popular due to its simplicity and ease of construction. Its flat-bottomed hull allowed it to navigate easily through sandbars and shoals. 

Among the boats that emerged, the sharpie, known for its flat-bottomed hull, became especially favored for tonging in shallow, protected waters. However, it was less suited for dredging, making it an ideal, inexpensive, and easy-to-maintain vessel for many oystermen. Meanwhile, larger boats, such as those resembling sloops, offered additional space and stability, which proved perfect for transporting oysters to market. 

The Evolution of the New York Sloop
In the latter half of the 19th century, the cat- or sloop-rigged centerboarder became a widespread vessel in the Great South Bay. Originally designed for general work in shallow waters, this boat became integral to the local oyster industry. Known as the New York sloop, it emerged in the 1830s, characterized by its wide, shoal centerboard and V-shaped hull. Adaptable, seaworthy, and perfectly suited for oyster harvesting, the New York sloop quickly spread throughout the northeastern United States, including New Jersey and Long Island Sound. 

Typically ranging from 18 to 36 feet in length, New York sloops were highly effective for the needs of oystermen. Many fast oyster sloops were even converted into racing vessels, with certain models gaining fame for their speed. Conversely, slower racing sloops were often refitted as working boats. Over time, the rigging of these vessels evolved—especially after the Civil War. The mast was moved further aft, and the gaff was extended, which improved performance. 

Types of New York Sloops
As historian Chapelle notes, Kochiss outlines three primary configurations of the New York sloop, each tailored to meet the needs of the oyster industry: 

1. The Open Deck Boat: Typically 18 to 25 feet long, these vessels lacked a cabin and featured an open hold amidships for carrying oysters. Often converted into racing boats, these vessels—particularly the sandbaggers—became famous for their exceptional speed. 
2. Open Boat with Forward Cabin: Similar to the open deck boat but with a cabin located near or aft of the mast. This design was ideal for transporting oysters, as the cabin helped prevent cargo from shifting when the boat heeled over. Slightly larger than open deck boats, these vessels also provided shelter for the crew. 
3. Deck Boat with Cabin Aft and Hold Forward: The most common type of oyster boat in New York and Great South Bay, these boats typically measured over 30 feet in length. They featured a fully decked hull with a hold amidships, and larger vessels often had a forecastle for crew accommodations. This configuration was highly seaworthy and easy to handle, especially when transporting oysters to market. 

Notable Long Island-built vessels include the Ann Gertrude (built in Patchogue in 1851), the J.F. Penny (built in Moriches in 1884), and the Priscilla and Ally Ray (medium south-side boats built in Patchogue between 1887 and 1889). South Side Long Island boat builders, many of English and Dutch descent, gained a reputation for constructing high-quality vessels. Their craftsmanship attracted oystermen from Connecticut, who sought out these well-made boats for their operations. 

Key figures in boat design included builders such as Oliver Perry Smith and his son Martenus, Samuel C. Wicks & Son, George Miller, Forrest, Charles, and Filmore Baker, George Bishop, and DeWitt Conklin. Other notable builders included Ottis Palmer of East Moriches, the Post brothers of Bellport, Sam Newey of Brookhaven, and Young of Great River. On the North Shore, builders like the Harts (Pryor, Erastus, and Oliver), Chas G. Sammis of Huntington, William Bedell of Glenwood (later Stratford, CT), and the Bayles of Port Jefferson contributed significantly to the industry. 

A notable example of a scallop dredge, the Modesty, was built by Wood and Chute of Greenport, NY. Modeled after a sloop built in Great South Bay called Honest, the Modesty was designed for both oystering and scalloping and remains one of the last two sailing workboats built on Long Island. Modesty and Perscilla were both used to aid shipwrights when restoring Mystic Seaport’s Nellie back to her original sailing build. 

As Kochiss mentions, important sailmakers of Long Island, including Charles Miller (whose shop was located above Samuel C. Wicks & Son in Patchogue), worked closely with boat builders. Independent sailmakers like Frank C. Brown of Patchogue and Frank Mills of Greenport also contributed to the success of these vessels. Wm J. Mills and Co. is the oldest sailmaking family in America, and Mystic Seaport Museum holds the family’s collection of historic sail plans dating as early as 1857. 

Freight and the Versatility of Coastwise Schooners
Freight carriers, often referred to as “coastwise schooners,” “Long Island Sound freighters,” or simply “runners,” were typically centerboarders known for their remarkable versatility. These vessels had a shallow draft and long, straight keels that allowed them to rest on beaches between tides, making them ideal for loading cargo such as cordwood or sand for foundries, and for repairs. 

Many areas around the coast of Long Island and throughout the sound provided incredible challenges due to unique beds, shallow waters, large sandbars, and more, making sailing hazardous. Due to the design of the freight vessels, they provided a safer form of transporting oysters, but at an additional cost. 

Innovation in Vessel Design
In addition to traditional vessel designs, some boat builders created specialized craft tailored specifically to the needs of oystermen. These innovations enhanced the efficiency, performance, and comfort of those working the oyster beds. However, oystermen were never content to rely solely on conventional designs. Driven by a constant desire to improve their vessels and harvesting methods, they continually sought new solutions. As a result, fleets of standard boats were often supplemented by more unusual craft—each offering unique advantages to the industry. Among the most inventive were a paddle-wheeler, several power scows, a trimaran, and even a small submarine (Kochiss 1991, 146). These unconventional designs underscore the creativity and resourcefulness of oystermen, who sought to address the ever-evolving challenges of their trade. These unique boats, though unconventional, illustrate the dynamic nature of the oyster industry and the persistent drive for innovation among its practitioners. 

The sidewheel dredge boat, designed by Captain Charles S. Mott and built in Patchogue in 1894, is another notable example. Another “novel oyster boat,” a scow called Peconic, was completed in 1907 by Greenport Basin & Construction Co. yards. The vessel, specifically engineered to navigate the narrow Shinnecock Canal while transporting oysters, was built for Fred Lewis, Jacob Ockers, Wm. J. Mills, and Fred Ronik (Kochiss 1991, 147). 

The Transition to Powered Vessels
The arrival of steam, gas, and diesel engines in the late 19th century marked a pivotal shift in the oyster harvesting industry. Powered vessels allowed for faster, more efficient harvesting, though many oystermen continued to rely on traditional sailboats for a number of reasons, including state regulations that restricted the use of power vessels when harvesting in bays, rivers, and low areas of water. As steam-powered dredges became more common, larger companies began to design and produce equipment, including dredges, hoisters, and engines to operate them. 

In response to the increasing use of steam power, oystermen feared that the new technology would deplete oyster beds, leading to legislation in 1879 that restricted the use of powerboats on natural beds to just one week per year. This law, aimed at preserving oyster stocks, helped maintain the dominance of sailboats for a time. However, by the 1880s, steam-powered boats were fully embraced, and many oystermen transitioned to these new vessels. 

Despite initial opposition to steam-powered boats, particularly from oystermen who feared the impact on natural beds, the technology eventually gained widespread acceptance. By the 1880s, steam-powered boats had proven their worth, and oystermen increasingly relied on these vessels for their efficiency. The introduction of gasoline engines further transformed the industry, offering oystermen a more compact, easier-to-maintain alternative to steam. 

One notable vessel, the Louis R., built in Stratford, Connecticut for the Andrew Radel Oyster Company, was the last steam-powered oyster boat in the region, finally converting to diesel in 1961. 

Gas-powered boats became particularly popular due to their ease of use, requiring no fireman or engineer, and with quick-starting engines. The design of these boats evolved as well, with the addition of an extended house to protect oysters during transport. These boats often retained masts for emergency situations, hoisting sails for power when the engine failed as well as the sails providing stability in bad weather. The introduction of gasoline engines marked a brief but significant period of innovation, leading to a resurgence in demand for wooden boat construction. 

However, regulations on natural oyster beds in New York limited the use of powered dredging, and by the early 20th century, wooden shipbuilding had largely faded from southern New England. Iron and steel replaced wood for most vessels, though only a few steel oyster boats were ever built. By the 1930s, the construction of oyster boats in the New York and Connecticut areas had significantly declined. The majority of building took place in Maine. 

Tools of the Trade: From Hand Rakes to Modern Machinery
The tools used in oyster harvesting evolved alongside the vessels. Early Indigenous techniques included simple hand-held rakes made from forked sticks, as depicted in a 1585 drawing by John White. By the mid-18th century, more sophisticated rake designs were in use, with long iron teeth bent inward for greater efficiency. These rakes were commonly lashed together in pairs for use by single or double fishermen. 

As the 19th century progressed, local blacksmiths began crafting specialized oyster tools, including tongs, which became synonymous with American oystering. These tongs were ideal for shallow waters and were often used on small boats like skiffs, canoes, and sharpies. There were several types of tongs, including scraper, oval, and toothed blades, each suited for different conditions. 

The invention of the dredge, which had been used by the Romans and introduced to America by the British, revolutionized the oyster industry. Dredges allowed oystermen to harvest oysters from deeper beds, significantly improving efficiency. By the late 19th century, mechanical dredges, hydraulic booms, and other innovations further modernized the industry. 

Modernization and the Future of Oystering
Today, oyster cultivation methods reflect a blend of tradition and innovation. While some oystermen continue to rely on bottom culturing methods—producing oysters with strong shells but leaving them vulnerable to predators—others have embraced off-bottom methods like cage culture, rack-and-bag culture, and suspended culture. These newer techniques offer better protection from predators and more controlled growing environments, though they come with their own set of challenges. 

Technological advancements have also reshaped the industry. The introduction of automated sorting machines and tumbler systems has increased the efficiency of sorting oysters by size and controlling shape. These innovations allow oyster producers to meet the commercial demand for consistently shaped oysters, reducing the labor-intensive nature of harvesting and packaging. 

However, modern oystering faces new challenges—both environmental and man-made—forcing the oyster industry to continue adapting. Looking ahead, the future of oystering on Long Island remains promising. With a renewed focus on sustainability, efficiency, and technological innovation, the oyster industry is poised to thrive. While the challenges may evolve, the adaptability of oystermen and their continued embrace of new techniques will ensure that the legacy of oystering endures for generations to come. 

From its Indigenous roots to its modern technological advancements, oystering on Long Island has evolved significantly over the centuries. The vessels, tools, and methods used by oystermen have continuously adapted to meet the challenges of the times, ensuring that the industry remains a vital part of the region’s culture and economy. 

The Oyster: A Cornerstone of Ecology and Economy 

Oysters have been an integral part of Long Island’s history, ecology, and economy for centuries. From their use in the 16th century for culinary and medicinal purposes to their continued importance today, oysters remain a vital resource. Not only do they provide nourishment, but they also play an essential role in maintaining the health of coastal ecosystems. This intricate relationship between geography, environmental conditions, and human activity underscores the oyster’s value as both an ecological pillar and a driver of economic prosperity. 

Oysters as Ecological Pillars 

Beyond their economic value, oysters are fundamental to the vitality of coastal ecosystems. The Eastern Oyster (Crassostrea virginica), alongside other species, is celebrated for its exceptional filtration abilities. A single oyster can filter up to 50 gallons of water per day, removing excess nutrients, plankton, and suspended particles. This filtration process is vital for maintaining water quality, preventing nutrient overload, and reducing the risk of harmful algal blooms and oxygen-depleted “dead zones.” 

In addition to their water-purifying role, oysters help shape the physical structure of coastal habitats. As they grow, oysters form dense reefs that provide critical shelter and breeding grounds for a wide variety of marine species, including fish, crabs, invertebrates, and even birds. These oyster reefs are often referred to as “ecosystem engineers” due to their ability to stabilize shorelines, protect against erosion, and enhance biodiversity. In this way, oysters contribute not only to the ecological health of the environment but also to its physical resilience. 

The Diversity of Oysters: Species and Growth 

While many species of oysters exist, the Eastern Oyster is the most prominent along the Atlantic Coast of the United States. It has been a cornerstone of oyster farming since the 19th century, stretching from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the Gulf of Mexico. Known by several names, such as the American oyster, Atlantic oyster, or Virginia oyster, the Eastern Oyster thrives in both brackish and salty waters, typically at depths between 8 to 35 feet. In warmer regions, it can even survive in the intertidal zone. Sets of this species were brought from Virginia to New England and New York during a time of great decline in oyster numbers due to overfishing and pollution. 

As bivalve mollusks, oysters are sessile—meaning they attach themselves to solid surfaces or other oysters, forming dense, resilient reefs. They are known for their rapid growth and high reproductive capacity, with a single female capable of releasing over 100 million eggs in a single spawning event. Additionally, many species of oysters are remarkable for their ability to change sex, as they are protandrous alternating hermaphrodites, further ensuring the species’ resilience and long-term survival in coastal waters. 

Natural Predators and Environmental Challenges 

Despite their ecological importance, oysters face numerous natural threats that can impact their populations. Predators such as starfish, oyster drills, and green crabs can damage oyster reefs. Environmental stressors, including severe weather events, fluctuating temperatures, and harmful algal blooms like brown tide, also pose significant challenges to oyster survival. Diseases such as MSX (caused by the protozoan parasite Haplosporidium nelsoni) have particularly affected Eastern oysters, though they pose no risk to humans. To combat diseases like MSX, oyster sets have been initiated with individuals resistant to MSX. 

These environmental pressures highlight the delicate balance oysters must maintain within their natural habitat, emphasizing the need for ongoing conservation and stewardship efforts to protect these vital creatures. 

The Tradition of “R” Months: A Historical and Modern Practice 

The tradition of eating oysters only during months containing the letter “R” dates back to at least the late 16th century. In his 1599 work Dyets Dry Dinner, Henry Buttes cautioned that oysters were more prone to spoilage during the warmer months, when they were likely to spawn. Warmer water temperatures also increased the risk of harmful algal blooms, such as red tide, which could produce toxins harmful to humans. When overfishing became a concern in the 19th century, restrictions like the “R” month rule allowed time for repopulation. 

What began as a precautionary measure eventually evolved into a cultural tradition. Today, modern farming techniques—such as refrigeration and the development of triploid oysters (sterile oysters that spawn less frequently)—have made oysters available year-round. Most oyster farms now operate in colder waters, where they can better control the oyster life cycle, ensuring a more consistent and sustainable harvest. 

Oysters in the Modern Era: Ecological and Economic Powerhouses 

Despite advances in technology and farming techniques, oysters remain as vital to our ecosystems and economies today as they have been for centuries. In regions like Long Island, where oyster farming is a cornerstone of the local industry, these bivalves continue to drive economic activity while providing invaluable ecological services. Beyond their culinary appeal, oysters play a critical role in water filtration, shoreline stabilization, and the creation of habitats for other marine life. 

Long Island’s East and West Bays provide a striking example of the delicate balance necessary for optimal oyster growth. The East Bay, sheltered by the barrier beach of Fire Island, is influenced by freshwater streams, lowering its salinity and providing ideal conditions for young oysters. In this brackish environment, natural predators, such as the oyster drill, are less abundant, allowing the oysters to thrive. However, the lower salinity also presents challenges for oyster maturation, making it harder for young oysters to reach harvestable size. 

In contrast, the West Bay, which is open to the more saline waters of the Atlantic Ocean, provides a more favorable environment for mature oysters. The higher salinity promotes faster growth and larger oysters, but it also increases the presence of predators. This contrast between the two bays has profound implications for local oyster farming, influencing both the ecological sustainability and economic output of the region. 

The Shape, Size, and Taste of Oysters 

Oysters vary widely in shape, size, and flavor, with these characteristics shaped largely by their growing conditions. Wild oysters, growing naturally, often have irregular, asymmetrical shells influenced by environmental factors such as water movement, substrate type, and local ecosystems. These oysters are prized for their complexity and variability, with flavors that can shift dramatically based on location. For example, wild oysters may have a more “minerally” or “briny” taste, depending on the salinity of the water—whether from a salty bay or a brackish river estuary. Some even carry distinct “seaweed” or “algae” notes, reflecting the local marine life. 

In contrast, farmed oysters are cultivated in controlled aquaculture systems and typically have more uniform, symmetrical shells. This consistency is achieved through techniques like rotating or “tumbling” the oysters to prevent them from attaching too firmly to the substrate, resulting in smooth, round shells. Farmed oysters generally grow larger and reach market size (typically 3 to 4 inches) more consistently. However, they tend to have thinner shells and less plump meat compared to wild oysters, due to the controlled growing conditions. Farmed oysters don’t face the same environmental stressors, such as strong currents, and therefore expend less energy filtering food, resulting in less dense meat. 

The most noticeable difference between wild and farmed oysters is their flavor. As filter feeders, oysters absorb the water around them, so their taste is influenced by the salinity, temperature, and plankton availability in their environment. Wild oysters, with their more variable conditions, have a more complex and diverse flavor profile, while farmed oysters offer more consistency. However, modern farming techniques can enhance flavors by manipulating salinity or nutrient levels to produce a more briny or intense taste. 

While wild oysters’ flavors can vary dramatically based on local water conditions, farmed oysters are generally more stable, though subtle differences may still arise due to variations in salinity, temperature, and farm location. Some farms even selectively breed oysters to achieve particular flavor profiles, giving farmed oysters a level of predictability and control that wild oysters cannot match. 

In the end, both wild and farmed oysters offer unique culinary experiences. Wild oysters are valued for their complexity, variability, and the influence of their natural environment on their taste, while farmed oysters provide consistency and can be manipulated to achieve specific flavor profiles. Whether you prefer the unpredictable richness of wild oysters or the reliable taste of farmed varieties, both have a place on the table, shaped by their environment and the methods used to cultivate them. 

Oysters: A Nutrient-Packed Superfood 

In addition to their ecological benefits, oysters are a nutritional powerhouse. Rich in protein, healthy fats, and a range of essential vitamins and minerals, oysters are a highly beneficial addition to any diet. A 3.5-ounce (100-gram) serving of oysters provides more than 100% of the recommended daily intake of vitamin B12, zinc, and copper, along with notable amounts of selenium, iron, and manganese. They are also an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids, which support heart health, reduce inflammation, and boost brain function. 

Low in calories but high in protein, oysters offer a balanced, nutrient-dense food choice. Furthermore, they are an environmentally sustainable seafood option, requiring minimal inputs such as feed or fertilizers. This makes oysters a smart choice for those seeking both health benefits and a minimal ecological footprint. 

Oysters: A Fundamental Resource 

Oysters are far more than just a culinary delight—they are essential to the health of coastal ecosystems and a critical source of nourishment worldwide. The delicate balance between salinity, predator pressures, and environmental factors has shaped the oyster’s role in both local ecosystems and global markets. By continuing to understand and preserve the conditions that allow oysters to thrive, we can ensure that these remarkable shellfish remain an ecological and culinary treasure for generations to come. 

As a cornerstone of both ecology and economy, oysters are a resource that we must continue to manage sustainably, ensuring that they enrich both the environment and the livelihoods of those who depend on them. 

Did you know? 

• In 1908, New York State passed a law restricting the sale of Blue Point oysters to those cultivated specifically in the waters of Great South Bay in Suffolk County. 

Methods of Shucking Oysters 

Shucking oysters is an art that has evolved over centuries. While the fundamental technique remains unchanged, different methods have emerged, each catering to specific purposes, whether for commercial efficiency or aesthetic presentation. Indigenous peoples, such as the Algonquians of Long Island, were among the first to enjoy oysters, preparing them in various ways, from raw to steamed and fire-roasted. These early methods continue to influence modern practices, celebrating the versatility of oysters as a food source. 

Over time, several shucking techniques have developed, including the side knife method, the stabber (or sticker) method, and the cracking or breaking method. Each method has its advantages and is suited to different settings, whether for speed, ease, or presentation quality. 

In the modern era, a straightforward technique has become the standard for both commercial and home shuckers. The oyster is held in the non-dominant hand, with the pointed end facing out. The knife is inserted into the hinge at a low angle, and with a gentle twist, the oyster opens. The top shell is then removed, and the oyster is freed by cutting the lower muscle. This efficient method preserves the oyster’s delicate texture and flavor, ensuring a clean presentation for the consumer. 

Favorite Old-World Recipes 

 

Oysters in White Wine a la Gardiner’s Island 

6 doz deep sea oysters 

½ cup dry white wine 

1pt. heavy cream 

3 tablespoons flower 

3 tablespoons butter  

¼ teaspoon cayenne  

Salt 

Cook oysters in their own liquor, boiling for just two minutes. Strain. Reduce liquid to half quantity. Melt butter, stir in flower, add liquid, cream, wine, a little salt and the cayenne. Fold oysters in gently. Serve with hot buttered toast. Enough for a party-halve the recipe for family dinner.  

 

Oyster Stew (As made at the Grand Central Terminal Oyster Bar.) 

For each portion, use eight to ten oysters. Melt a teaspoon of butter in a deep pan over a hot fire. As butter liquefies, pour in the oysters with whatever of their own liquid remains. Season quickly with a dash of Worcestershire sauce, ½ teaspoon celery salt and liberal dashes of salt, black pepper and paprika. As oysters simmer, more liquid will emerge from them. When the juice begins to boil and the edges of the oysters curl, add ½ pint of milk. Stir gently and leave on the fire until the milk is just beginning to boil. DO NOT PERMIT FULL BOILING. Pour the stew into a deep bowl, drop in ½ teaspoon of butter and dust paprika over the surface. Serve at once with oyster crackers. Make each portion separately if convenient, but not more than two or three servings at a time.  

 

Oyster Souffle 

1 tablespoon butter 

1 tablespoon flower 

1 tablespoon chopped parsley 

1 cup milk 

1cup oysters (which have been rolled in cracker crumbs and fied, or use  

leftover fried oysters)  

½ teaspoon salt 

10 drops onion juice 

3 eggs separated 

Make white sauce with butter, flower and milk; add seasonings, beaten yolks of eggs and the fried oysters (diced of whole if very small oysters). Heat for a minute or two and then cool. When cool, add stiffly beaten whites of eggs, pour into a buttered baking dish and bake for 35 minutes at 350 deg. F. Serves 6.  

The History and Legacy of Oystering on Long Island: From Suffolk County to Modern Restoration 

Long Island’s rich maritime history is deeply intertwined with its oyster industry, which has shaped both the cultural and economic landscape of the region for centuries. At the heart of this story lies Orient, the easternmost hamlet on Long Island’s North Fork. Originally founded in 1640 as part of Southold and named Poquatuck by the indigenous Algonquian peoples, the area’s proximity to abundant oyster beds led to its eventual renaming as Oyster Ponds. The fertile lands, sheltered harbors, and rich shellfish resources quickly attracted settlers—primarily fishermen, farmers, and tradespeople—who recognized the region’s unique natural bounty. In 1836, the village formally adopted the name “Orient” after its post office, as “Oyster Ponds” was deemed too similar to the nearby Oyster Bay. 

The settlement’s origins date back to 1640, when thirteen men, led by Reverend John Youngs, established their community. Among them was John Tuthill, whose family legacy continues to this day. Through my research at the Mystic Seaport Museum, I was introduced to Orient Point and the Tuthill family, whose deep-rooted connection to the land and waters has been passed down for generations. In 2003, the Tuthills founded the Oysterponds Shellfish Company, continuing a tradition of shellfishing that dates back to the early 1800s, when commercial fishing first took hold in the region. 

This article is part one of three and explores the evolution of the oyster industry, beginning with my visit to Orient Point—still affectionately known as Oysterponds by locals—and examining how oystering has shaped Long Island’s history, economy, and culture. To provide further context, I will first share the mission of the Long Island Collection at the Mystic Seaport Museum and how my research has uncovered the intertwined histories of Long Island’s industries. 

Early Colonial Oystering and Indigenous Contributions 

Before European settlers arrived, Indigenous peoples—particularly the Algonquians of Long Island—relied on oysters and other shellfish as a vital food source. Anthropologist Allison McGovern notes that these communities maintained a foraging lifestyle, dependent on marine and estuarine resources for thousands of years. They taught early settlers how to harvest and prepare oysters and other shellfish, laying the foundation for a thriving industry that would later define the region. 

Settlement on Long Island progressed from east to west by the English and from west to east by the Dutch. The two groups met at what is now Oyster Bay. Early English settlements included Gardiner’s Island (1639), Southold (1640), Shelter Island, East Hampton (1648), Oyster Bay (1653), Brookhaven (1655), Smithtown (1665), and Islip (1683). The Montaukett, part of the Algonquian Nation, inhabited much of Long Island’s eastern regions until the early 1600s, before European settlement. 

The influence of Dutch settlers on Long Island’s maritime industries is still evident today. Over time, various immigrant groups contributed their expertise, further shaping the region’s maritime economy. Portuguese immigrants in Port Washington became renowned for their skills in eeling and clamming, while Dutch settlers shared their knowledge of fishing. By the 19th century, Irish, German, Portuguese, and Spanish immigrants had added to the cultural and economic diversity of the area, creating a truly global maritime community. 

The Growth of the Oyster Industry into the 20th Century 

By the late 19th century, Long Island had become a dominant force in the North American oyster trade. As historian Kochiss writes, “New York State has consistently outproduced Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Massachusetts in marketable oysters. By the 1880s, New York City had become the center of the northern oyster industry, leading the country in overseas and transcontinental oyster shipments.” Oysters poured into New York markets from New England, Chesapeake Bay, Delaware Bay, and, most significantly, from Long Island’s own waters, including Staten Island, City Island, Raritan Bay, and nearly every inlet and bay on Long Island. 

In the Great South Bay, oystering evolved from a communal resource to a more regulated, commercial activity. Initially, New York and New Jersey implemented conservation measures to protect oyster populations, such as restricting harvest seasons. By the 19th century, demand for oysters had soared—not only as a food source but also as a sought-after commodity. 

The industry was highly mobile, with baymen—local fishermen—harvesting young oysters, called “seed oysters,” from the East Bay, where lower salinity and fewer predators provided an ideal environment for oyster larvae. These seed oysters were then moved to the West Bay, where saltier waters allowed them to grow to marketable sizes. Oystering became a cold-weather business, with harvesting typically taking place between September and April to avoid overharvesting. 

By the mid-19th century, Long Island’s oyster industry was thriving, especially around Sayville in the Great South Bay. For many landowners and farmers, oystering became a lucrative winter activity, providing extra income during the off-season. Oysters and other shellfish harvested from the bay became vital to both the local economy and the New York City market. Dutch immigrants played an essential role in this expansion, bringing their expertise to Long Island’s oyster farms. 

One significant turning point came in 1884, when New York State passed a law granting Suffolk County rights to submerged lands for oyster cultivation. This legal framework paved the way for the expansion of commercial oyster farming. The introduction of oysters from Virginia helped rejuvenate the industry, which had been severely depleted by overfishing and pollution. 

The establishment of Blue Point oysters as a commercial staple further cemented Long Island’s reputation as a premier oyster producer. By the late 19th century, wild oyster populations had dwindled, prompting the rise of aquaculture practices and the development of sustainable farming methods. Oysters became so abundant that they were consumed by both the wealthy and the working class in New York City, often sold in street-side carts: “For a time, it seemed oysters were an inexhaustible resource.” 

Despite the success, the industry faced challenges in the early 20th century, including outbreaks of typhoid fever and gastrointestinal diseases linked to contaminated oysters. Though later studies showed that oysters were rarely the source of these diseases, the stigma persisted, and the industry suffered further setbacks due to pollution and overfishing. 

The Rise and Decline of the Northern Oyster Industry 

In 1924, outbreaks of typhoid fever linked to raw shellfish from polluted waters further damaged the industry. While government regulations were introduced to improve processing and handling standards, the damage was done. The oyster industry began to shrink as larger corporate enterprises dominated, pushing smaller, independent oystermen out of business. By the early 20th century, labor costs, pollution, and competition from other regions had taken their toll on the smaller, local oyster farms. 

As Kochiss notes, “Frequent set failures and labor costs forced many companies out of business. To survive, some concerns combined resources, over the cries of ‘monopoly’ from smaller, independent oystermen.” By the mid-20th century, oysters had lost some of their popularity, particularly in the wake of the industry’s public health concerns. 

Refocusing on Oyster Ponds: A Modern Revival 

The decline of the industry in the early 20th century set the stage for a new chapter in oystering on Long Island. The revival of the oyster industry today focuses not just on commercial interests but also on environmental restoration. Oysters play a crucial role in maintaining healthy coastal ecosystems. The Eastern Oyster (Crassostrea virginica) can filter up to 50 gallons of water per day, helping to improve water quality and prevent harmful algal blooms. Furthermore, oyster reefs provide critical habitats for various marine life, including fish, crabs, and invertebrates. 

Oysters are also a nutrient-packed food, rich in protein, omega-3 fatty acids, and essential vitamins and minerals. As Dolaskie explains, the tradition of eating oysters during months with an “R” in their name goes back to 1599, when it was common advice to avoid raw oysters during the summer months due to bacterial risks surrounding the inability to keep the shellfish cold. Today, 90 percent of oyster farms operate in colder waters, allowing for a year-round harvest. 

Oystering on Long Island is more than just a commercial industry; it’s a cultural heritage, a connection to the land, and a keystone of environmental health. The future of Long Island’s oysters hinges on sustainable practices, scientific innovation, and a growing commitment to environmental restoration. As we look to the future, the legacy of oyster harvesting remains deeply embedded in Long Island’s communities—from the historic waters of Orient Point to the modern farms scattered along the island’s shores.